Best Holiday Dining Spots

by Rubin Carson

There are thousands of restos in L.A. but only a few that put you in a holiday mood. Ingredients? (a) Service that makes you feel mistaken for Tom Cruise and this month's wife (b) Ambience that doesn't look like Star Wars outtakes (c) Foods that you can pronounce plus portions larger than a quarter. Here are my holiday choices:

Lawry's, The Prime Rib, 100 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 652-7270

Lawrence L. Frank decided to cater to the universe's inner child and devised a restaurant with one single entree: prime rib. Countless locals and tourists have flocked here for over sixty years. Next to Disneyland and Rodeo drive, this festive landmark is most visited destination of Japanese tour groups. Reason? Lawry's well-marbled ribs are on a par with their own Kobe beef for eighty percent less cost. Fresh seafood was introduced about five years ago - - but place on delete. Main event is still Kansas beef aged in rock salt, carved from silver carts at table, plus Yorkshire pudding. Tradition demands waitress spin massive silver salad bowl over her head, so duck.

Valley Inn, 4557 Sherman Oaks Ave, Sherman Oaks, (818) 784-1163

If all restaurants were like this, our world would be a non-stop holiday. This best kept secret specializes in perfectly prepared short ribs, steaks, seafood, and the best beef barley soup this side of Bucharest (only Thursday nights).

Tam O'shanter Inn, 2980 Los Feliz Blvd. Los Angeles (323) 664-0228)

I was raised in Glendale and didn't know that Tam O'Shanter was a "theme" restaurant. Birthdays, anniversaries, and every holiday were spent here. Theme, shmene, who cared? Nobody. It's been around since 1922 and still features wall-to-wall plaid on everything that walks and talks. Best of all, it's run by Lawry's who know what to do with fresh seafood, roast prime rib, and perfectly done duckling. I've tried holiday haggis in Scotland and am always grateful it's not on the menu here. Truly a culinary WMD.

Paul's Cafe, 18588 Ventura Blvd., Tarzana, (818) 343-8588

Who would have thought that you could walk into a Ventura Boulevard restaurant and immediately think you were in the South of France. Juan Mendoza's bistro is bright, sunny, and perfect for a holiday bash. I sampled the whitefish in Mustard Dijon and mashed potatoes while my partner raved over the Osso Buco Brassiere in Red Wine. Better than France at a third the tab.

Holiday Tip: If the food and service put you in a festive mood, Ventura Blvd. begins to look like the Cote D' Azure.